Uzès, First Duchy of France
A leisurely wander through the ducal city, where heritage meets Mediterranean ease
Uzès has that rare quality found in towns that have nothing to prove. It doesn’t try to charm — it simply is. A harmony of blond stone, painted shutters, and shaded little squares where time seems to slow of its own accord. As the first duchy of France (the title was granted in 1565 by Charles IX), it carries its history with the quiet confidence of those who know their nobility is assured.
What strikes you first is the light. That particular southern clarity, reflected by limestone façades, bathing the streets in a golden softness. Gide, born here in 1869, made it his secret muse. Racine stayed here, exiled by his Jansenist uncle. More recently, Jean‑Paul Rappeneau filmed Cyrano de Bergerac in these very settings.
Uzès Essentials
Place aux Herbes The beating heart of the town, bordered by medieval arcades lined with cafés and small shops. On Saturday mornings, its market is one of the loveliest in Provence — local producers, olives, goat cheeses, flowers in abundance.
The Duchy Still inhabited by the Crussol d’Uzès family, this thousand‑year‑old château can be visited. The Bermonde Tower (11th century), the Gothic chapel, the ceremonial apartments — a journey through time.
Fenestrelle Tower Unique in France, this round multi‑tiered bell tower recalls Italian campaniles. Its 42 metres have watched over the town since the 12th century.
The Medieval Garden Nestled at the foot of the bishop’s palace, this garden recreates the plants of a monastic enclosure. Medicinal, aromatic, dye plants — a haven of peace and knowledge.
Our Secret Addresses
La Maison d’Uzès A five‑star hotel set in a 17th‑century private mansion. Gastronomic dining by a Michelin‑starred chef. The finest establishment in town.
L’Uzège Inventive seasonal cuisine in a warm setting with family‑style service.
Mes Chocolats — Alfonso Cannarozzo “Bean‑to‑bar” artisan chocolatier, one of the few in the region. His ganaches inspired by Cévennes flavours (chestnut, honey, chili) are unforgettable.
Librairie de la Place aux Herbes For book lovers. A sharp selection, expert advice, and an excellent regional section.
The Uzès Calendar
Saturday Market All year long, the essential weekly event. Arrive early to soak up the atmosphere.
Nuits Musicales d’Uzès (July) Baroque music festival held in the courtyards and gardens of the town.
Truffle and Wine (January) A weekend dedicated to two treasures of the region. Truffle market, tastings, workshops.
Good to Know: Uzès is just 10 minutes from the Domaine de Panéry. From the estate, take the small country roads that wind between vineyards and garrigue — the journey is part of the pleasure.