Off‑the‑Beaten‑Path Itinerary: Golden Stone Villages and Garrigue Hills
The Uzège has something precious about it: you have to earn it. No major roads, no flashy signs — only narrow lanes that slip into the garrigue, climb toward forgotten hamlets, and descend into secret valleys. It’s a land of gentle hills, dry‑stone walls, and the scents of thyme and rosemary.
We suggest a one‑day itinerary, to be explored by car or — for the more adventurous — by electric bike. Fifty kilometres of pure beauty, punctuated by gourmet stops and heritage discoveries.
First Stop: Saint‑Quentin‑la‑Poterie
Seven kilometres from Uzès, this village is entirely devoted to ceramics. A tradition dating back to the 14th century, when potters settled here to make use of the clay deposits. Today, more than 25 workshops keep the craft alive — stoneware, faience, porcelain, raku.
Worth seeing: La Maison de la Terre, the Mediterranean ceramics museum. The open workshops around Place de la Fontaine.
Good tip: Every summer (late July), the Terra Vino festival brings together ceramicists, winemakers, and artisans for a festive market.
Second Stop: La Capelle‑et‑Masmolène
This double village — La Capelle above, Masmolène below — hides a marvel: a Renaissance château with hanging gardens, rarely open but visible from the road. The lanes of La Capelle, perched on its rocky outcrop, offer breathtaking views over the Gard plain.
Our favourite: The Masmolène washhouse, fed by a fresh spring, where locals were still washing their laundry fifty years ago.
Third Stop: Pouzilhac
A small wine‑growing village nestled against the first foothills of the garrigue, Pouzilhac lives to the rhythm of the agricultural seasons. Here, on the clay‑limestone soils of the piedmont, vines and olive trees find their purest expression. The château dominates the village — a private property, but its Renaissance silhouette stands out magnificently against the southern sky.
To discover: The Domaine de Panéry, just outside the village on the road to Uzès. Organic wine and olive‑oil tastings, a tour of the cellar and mill, and lunch at La Table du Domaine.
Fourth Stop: Valliguières
Valliguières may be the most secret of our villages. A handful of houses clinging to the hillside, a squat bell tower, and a dizzying view over the Gardon gorges. You reach it by a winding road through evergreen oak woods — a feeling of being at the end of the world.
Photo spot: The belvedere, accessible by a footpath from the village, offers a 180° panorama over the valley.
Fifth Stop: Saint‑Siffret
To end on a high note, this village with its cobbled lanes shelters one of the most beautiful squares in the Uzège. Its Romanesque church, winegrowers’ houses, and quiet atmosphere — it’s easy to understand why so many Parisians have chosen to settle here.
Good address: Le Comptoir Saint‑Siffret, a café‑grocery that also serves as a bread depot and a meeting place for locals.
Practical Tip: Bring a cooler: local producers often sell cheeses, charcuterie, and vegetables along the roadside or in village squares.